Yes, in Romania

It's a thermostat kit available on most 500 part stores. It contains the flap, bushings and other small parts. I think I got it from passione500.

The spacer goes inside between the 2 bearings, like in the video.

@@AircooledProject parlavo dell'anello

Anzi scusate degli anelli

The thin ring goes between the bearing and seal, so the bearing doesn't rub on the seal.

Hello Alfredo. I'm in Romania, but I'm not a professional mechanic. I restored this engine for my own car.

@@AircooledProject congratulations man, really awesome work. I wish I'd do the same with my 500, it's abandoned since 2005

Thank you. It's an easy car to work on. If you research everything well, you should be able to do it.

Multumesc!

Grazie!

Thanks. I couldn't say for sure, but maybe it is ovearheating. For a start, you should check the termostat and flap on the right side of the engine. Maybe take out the termostat, leave the flap open, and see if it works better.

No, I used custom cylinders from Nanni, and I got some thick paper gaskets that they recommend when you don't install a headgasket. For a stock engine, the thin paper ones should be ok.

Thanks

I think the official values are 0.3 - 0.44 mm. I do think the 0.44 value is a maximum accepted for a worn bearing. When rebuilding, I would go for the 0.3 value or even a bit less. If I remember correctly, my engine had between 0.2 and 0.25 endfloat after the final assembly.

Thanks

@@punto888 You're welcome!

Hello. It's a cheap romanian coating with high bronze content used mainly on stove metal parts. In translation, it's actually called "bronze for stove". Try googling "kynita bronz argintiu" I don"t know under what name you would find it in other countries. Maybe you could ask some company specialized in stoves.

Multumesc, ma bucur ca iti sunt utile.

Yes, the cylinders I got were designed to work without a head gasket. Also, the head was freshly skimmed.

Thank you! If the fuel pressure is too high, the needle valve in the carburetor will not be able to stop the flow when the bowl is full and the engine will be flooded with gas.

Gracias, saludos desde Rumania

With a lever between 2 flywheel bolts. Visible at 8:00

Yes, I did apply a high temp clear coat after paint, although it's not absolutely necessary.

Thank you for watching. The cylinders, pistons and rings were bought as a kit. You can find them on most fiat 500 parts stores. I bought the rest of the parts separately.

Google "pneumatic hole puncher"

You need to remove the 4 bolts of the driveshaft, then the big nut that holds the wheel shaft. Now, you can remove the hub and the plate by undoing the 4 bolts that hold it to the suspension arm. When reassembling, you will need a new crush spacer and a way to apply a lot of torque to the big nut in order to adjust the preload on the bearing. I used a pneumatic impact wrench. A long breaker bar also works.

Also, I have this video that should help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4Koc2yclLR8jqM&feature=share8

@@AircooledProject Thank you so much! I may have disassembled it in the wrong order, but, c'est la vie. I'm having a problem visualizing when the big nut gets torqued down. I have everything off but that one. It's not a castle nut with a cotter pin as some diagrams show. Rather, it has a raised knob on the end where the spring from the drive shaft rests against it.

I was in a hurry and didn't film the tightening process. I used a pneumatic impact wrench and tighten it a bit at a time while checking the load on the bearing as shown in the video at 6:37. You can also use a braker bar or long wrench, but you need to find a way to keep the axle from moving. Maybe another person can hold it.

Hello. On the metal parts, I used high temp primer, paint and clearcoat. The manufacturer, I believe, is called Macota. It's just what I found at a local hardware store.

@@AircooledProject thank you very much! I will try to search for it and share, maybe someone else need it too, but it was not specifically 2C paint?

It is regular high temp spray paint. It is not 2C.

Thank you. I'm glad you found them useful. Good luck with your project!

Thank you, Barry. Good luck with your project. If you decide to get it :)

Thank you!

E destul de zdravana caroseria, nu sunt multe de facut.

Multumesc. Am ramas in urma cu youtubeul, motorul are deja aproape un an de la reconditionare si peste 8000km :)

Hello. If I remember correctly, it's metric 32.

Salut. Acum am pus doar garnitura simpla si pare sa tina ok.

Hello. There should be a spacer there. It shouldn't touch. In the meantime, I replaced the flex joints with proper modern homokinetic joints. No more fiddling with gearbox position to perfectly align driveshafts.

Thank you. It's the gopro suction cup on the passenger window.

Thank you! Greetings from Romania!

Hello. Yes, part 2 of this series: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5q1mmR3qNadnbM

If you refer to the ignition timing, I do that with a strobe light, like any other car. it's kind of difficult to film with the engine in the car. For the static timing, you should consult a manual. You can find at least one free pdf on google.

:)) It's just going to be the assembly of engine accessories and first start.

Great!! Can’t wait. 👌

Grazie!

Hello. It's the heater control. It opens and closes some flaps in the heater boxes.

If you used the compressor tool, I think it should be at the right height immediately. I didn't notice any lowering on mine after installation. Maybe ~1cm, not really noticeable.

I did just restore my old spring. If you fit a new one, it may need some time to settle.

@@AircooledProjectYes, it will not be the same as a new one I guess.

Yes, I turned it around when I put the engine back in the car. Forgot to add a note on the video about it.

I'm glad you found my videos useful. Enjoy your little Fiat!

Hello. I think it's either an o-ring or a paper gasket, not both. I used a peper gasket. I'm not sure about this, but I think the bearing should have a groove if an o-ring is needed. Check out this schematic: www.fiatclassic.com/media/image/f0/bc/19/SKMBT_C224e20021716490_0030_Seite11_10099.jpg

Hey, I answered your question on the other video.

Hello. I only replaced the bottom section of the front panel. There's a video on my channel about it. If you replace the whole front section, I'm guessing the welding will be a bit tricky. I don't see a regular spot welder fitting in those tight spaces, so a mig welder would have to do. Just take your time , make sure everything is aligned before final welding. Also, it's a good idea to treat overlapping metal with weld-through copper primer.