Vibration Reduction doesn't offset a larger aperture if the subject is moving. Just sayin'.

thanks for the video!!! here is a like and a comment good sir!

Generally, photographers that buy an f/2.8 medium-zoom do so to make money with it. It's an event, run-and-gun lens. So the choice is easy: the Tamron with image stabilization. And if you still shoot with a DSLR, you would've upgraded to the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 G2 or the super expensive Nikon 24-70 with image stabilization (VR). If you're more of an artistic photographer, you go with fast primes for obvious reasons (outstanding bokeh and low light use).

How about crop sensor vs extender. Which one is bretter. Thank

Tamron have less CA and is quite sharp for the price, faster AF then Sigma, significantly cheaper then Canon F4-F2.8.

I am looking to use my sb700 as a single remote flash to light my product photos. I will need a remote trigger wire or wireless to make this work. As someone who has never used flash before, im looking to get started as painless as possible. I'm still searching youtube for help with off camera flash tips.

Hey your ideas is great...however there's something that you might want to add to your Tripod setup ..use sand bags on the Tripod legs it's will Guarantee to provide Substantial Stability on your camera setup...trust me you'll be soo surprise of the end results 😊 Be bless 🙌

how can you compare a older such old lens with the newer lens ??????

Thanks guys. Now I'm really undecided. I'm a wildlife shooter (Canon 200-400, 200-800, 100-500) and I want a shorter lens for closer work. Looking at the EF 70-200 Mark ll. The only difference in the mark lll is lens coating basically. Now looking at theTamron. Sigma almost a pound heavier. I might just flip a coin. Thanks again for the comparison.

Not many will notice the difference if not told about it.

articolo veramente interessante!!!! Mi hai aiutato a non buttare i soldi per un moltiplicatore focale. Io con il mio 70/200 2.8..cercavo solo un raddoppio dell'immagine! Grazie

Hi. I just bought a Nikon Z5 and a Viltrox 35mm, and in my case, mounting the lens is quite difficult; I have to use some force. Did anyone else experience this? Is this some kind of defect, or is the mount supposed to get easier over time? I used to have a Canon, and I never had these issues.

Thanks for the review, it’s helping with my purchase decision.

thx 🙏🙏

Just for ppl watching this in 2024, tripods over 6ft are not allowed on Disney property

Imagine my reaction when MY BEST LENS ( tamron 24-70 f/2.8 ) was crossed in the thumbnail 😭😭😭

I refuse to sell off all my F-mount glass. I wasn't going to go mirrorless unless the adaptor worked. You saved me a lot of money with this video. I'm sticking with my DSLR.

I'm noticing that these new 50mm F/1.2 - F/1.8 lenses are not performing as well as they did in the 35mm film days. Ironic.

Fisheye feels like anime following lines. Especially for action/conflict scenes.

All your photos look fantastic! About the difference in distortion between the 8mm on a crop sensor and the 12mm on a full frame, why do you say the 8mm is more distorted? I have seen several images of people comparing those two lenses from the exact same spot on a tripod and both lenses create the exact same image and distortion. Is there something I'm missing? I'm actually looking to buy one of those lenses but your comment on the 8mm being more distorted has made me spiral to infinity researching everywhere if that was true xP

The are totally overpriced.

Is there any viewing deck for this spot? So that you can see the entire waterfall from across it instead of coming close to it?

" Zoom Laziness:" lol

Thank you. Very informative. Is the Mark II worth the upgrade (I have neither and am looking into getting one of them). The RF 100 - 300 is just too far out of budget for me to justify (I'm not a pro).

So, in conclusion get a 400mm f1.8

To be honest I thought the m50 was a bit clearer apart from the background 😮

While the conclusions of this video are certainly valid for the given iso, in my experience you'll see a very different result at higher isos or underexposed shots where sensor noise becomes an issue. Given a perfectly exposed low ISO shot cropping versus a telly yields similar results on a very sharp lens. However, teleconverters show much much less noise than cropping if the shots are underexposed or use higher isos. To therefore say there's no different between cropping and teleconverters in my experience is not completely accurate. It's accurate only for lower ISO for properly exposed shots.

Save your back and bank balance at get a Panasonic lumix FZ300 25-600 F2.8,it is superb

Aw Jesus that was a long drawn out talk that went nowhere ... im out of breathe.

i may use a tripod collar with one zve10 and tamron 17-70?

So it's like a 15% quality increase for a tenfold price increase? Would you say that's accurate?

I am just looking how to put of the ring (used for a tripod ) You have the little finger on it on the begining of your video. Thank s

I have a Z9 and Z8 and use them to shoot in museums and museum houses that do not allow flash. I can confirm Bill and Eric's result. With my 24-70mm lens, even at 70mm I can get sharp shots nearly all the time at 1/10 second. I typically take two photos of each subject to make sure at least one is sharp, and usually both are. At 1/5 second it's hit or miss. If I have to go that slow, I review the shots before moving on. With 1/10 second I just move on without detailed review, as I'm confident one of the two photos is sharp. I use the lower shutter speeds to lower the ISO. I have photos so sharp and clear with these cameras that people might say, "I didn't know you could use a tripod in the house." Ultimately, I couldn't care less how many stops image stabilization is good for. I just know I can get sharp shots at 1/10 second, and in most low light situations that provides a significant ISO reduction for less noisy images.

Thanks for the awesome video. I wish you good luck as a youtuber

On my Nikon D810, my auto-iso always let's in a stop more of light than the shot really needs making it often overexposed for my tastes. I set my compensation at -1 stop - now it's perfect!!!

great vid -thanks!

F4 is cheaper, lighter n even better than more expensive heavy 2.8 . I think we have got to be more practical now

I can also recommend both the Tamron 17-35mm f2.8-4 Di OSM or the Nikon 18-35mm f3.5-4.5. Both are relatively lightweight compared to other full-frame wide-angle zoom lenses. They can take a 77mm filter. The Tamron has superb weather sealing too. This makes them great for travel and landscape. Lenses like the 14-24 Nikkor and 15-30 Tamron do have a bit more width but they are heavy, don't take a standard filter, even with a lenshood they have front elements that are screaming to get damaged

Do you think a 24 - 105 would be wide enough to capture the larger falls?

I am new to everything and there was no way I could have done this without you, thank you so much

Thanks for the honest review. I just bought this F/4 lens for only €445 and 1x or 2x used. Really great and yesss sharp at my Nikon D610

Point that giant zoom at a bride and groom and youll see a very upset scene. Be a pro and buy the right prime for the job.

Prime teleconverters are they any good

24y8m

Lovely illustrative pictures.

yes, but your photos could also be taken with a regular phone

Can you use auto on canon r100 cuz there’s no settings on here to do auto :(

Thank you. This was helpful

What aperture keeps everything in focus ? On this lens

well can I have it since you don't need it.