If you set the voltage cutout that high, you will cook the batteries! I wasn't going to use this battery for this application, but now I might - I want to prove it can be done safely. Worst case, I fry the alternator regulator. I'm not worried too much about it - You can see how it levels out quite well with just the load of the headlights and the fan motor. Just to note - the fan motor will act like a "capacitor" of a sort as long as it is spinning - being a brushed motor, it will generate power as it spins down, which will act to stabilize the voltage. And I have proven this with multiple other vehicles in the past - you can totally run without a battery in a pinch, as long as you keep the fan blowing. I intend on adding a small capacitor to my system to level out spikes, but honestly.... it'll likely work fine anyway.

I haven't messed with the inside of a pump in quite a while, but it's a matter of adjusting the governor assembly inside the pump - you pull the top off, and adjust the barrel of the governor assembly IIRC

No, I am not. I have head studs in a different rig, the high-HP one with a bigger than stock turbo, but the head gaskets will hold fine with bolts and a reasonable 200-250RWHP. The one thing that will kill them, though, is overheating the motor, especially after many years.

Same with the 89 i also recently bought lol, but she kicks on when she wants to every now and again!

Probably on position? the further up you cut it, the more tab you can use for your fingers. It's really just making the rod accessible to you.

Yeah

Leaks - no, as far as I can tell, I don't; there is no soot buildup around various areas, which even a small leak would produce. And no smoke on startup from places other than the tailpipe. I'm still not quite sure the issue, but one cylinder is /not/ right. The motor still "taps" a bit, same as it did a few years back; not worse or better. When I eventually tear it down, I will probably find something horrible lol. (I'm thinking valvetrain or camshaft). As for disconnecting the battery, I likely did it because of the position of the glow plug controller, which is right there on the passenger side valve cover on a factory turbo model. This makes it very easy to short with a tool, and I get annoyed with the sparks.

Haven't killed it yet! (I'm still amazed by this honestly... it still ticks just like in the video, I use it to haul way too much, and I've put quite a few miles on it these past 3.5 years)

@@MacRobbSimpson idk what the fuck possessed me a year ago but i know better now lol i got an n/a 6.9 idi now too, when i originally posted i had a 7.3 powerstroke (wonder why i was so fucking stupid huh)

@@MacRobbSimpson oh also i run that idi on waste oil as fuel lol

First, pull the timing plate off the front of the IP gear housing. Mark where the pin is. Pull the 4 bolts holding the IP gear housing to the block. Using a small pry bar, pry up on the housing just a bit, while putting a little force on the IP gear (using the small 12-point bolts) counter-clockwise. You basically just pry up the housing(and IP etc) enough to get the teeth out of mesh, then skip it a tooth and tighten it down. you can look at your mark to see how far you went. The only downside of this is that you'll probably have a little weeping from the timing gear cover->block area, due to breaking the RTV seal... but I usually don't worry about it due to everything else leaking as well lol

Take a 5/16 nut, drill it out with a 5/16" and slip it in with the gov spring. Will get you ~4200. Make sure you get the overall governor length the same, couple thou is a couple hundred idle rpm.

<something less than 12> volts - I kept the zig-zag stock resistor on that setup, which will lower the voltage and increase the glow time needed.

@@MacRobbSimpson Thank you very much!

Not a gas engine - you don't add fuel like that. Gas engines need extra fuel or they run lean. Diesel engines run lean normally, so you simply add fuel through the normal mechanism(the metering valve controlled via the throttle lever and governor).

Same boat brother... mine is an 85 F350 originally w the 6.9. Now a doner 7.3

If you have the timing right, the glow plugs working, and the controller glowing long enough... the engine should fire within about 5 seconds, even down to 32F. If things aren't right, it'll kill batteries really quickly. Another cause of battery killing is a dying starter - they have 4 brushes inside, but if one gets worn out too much, it'll "work" with only one pair of two... cranking slowly and taking lots more power to do so.

Nvermind I seen in the comments you do